Inside Passage- Grass Is Greener Where You Water It

Inside Passage · Grass Is Greener Where You Water It
Inside Passage · Alaska

Grass Is Greener Where You Water It

One man's wilderness is another man's theme park. Somewhere between North Face fleece, glacier mist, and the heated pool on the Golden Princess, Alaska asks whether we are really seeing the landscape—or merely consuming it.

Enter the Passage

One man's wilderness is another man's theme park.

Golden Princess Inside Passage North Face Weather Glacier Bay Rain and Solitude
Chapter 01

On a Cruise Ship, Nothing Fails Like Excess

You do not buy clothes. You wear them—North Face, Columbia, Patagonia—in roughly that order.

Scrabster, Scotland
Scrabster Memory

Same Shirt, Different Day

North Face gear is on almost everyone aboard. It takes me back to Scrabster, Scotland, when I wore the same gear every day—and somehow managed to lose the jacket.

Read Scrabster
The Pool

Glacier Mist at the Speed of Trust

As I swim laps in the Golden Princess' heated pool, 250-year-old glacier mist hits my face at the speed of trust.

I have to reconsider an old assertion: if Hollywood is loneliness beside the swimming pool, then Norway is solitude by the fjords.

Read Norway's Western Fjords

I am safe in the solitude of being a tourist. It plays more like a Disney animated feature than a true Alaskan adventure.

Chapter 02

Everyone Has a Photographic Memory

Not everyone develops it.

York Cathedral
York Cathedral

For Real

At this point, all you need is Google and a holy instant to retrieve the image. But retrieval is not the same as memory, and memory is not the same as presence.

York Cathedral — For Real

What you resist persists. Around here, that means rain.

Chapter 03

Glacier Bay in Sepia

Glacier Bay draws closer and begins to read like a Hemingway story: spare, elemental, and bristling with subtext.

Nature

Mystery, Power, Vulnerability

Everything appears sepia-toned. The scale is immense, but the feeling is intimate. Nature is not background. It is the main character—mysterious, powerful, and vulnerable at the same time.

I love watching the sun on the water, but I do not have to go to the sun. I just love knowing it is there.

The same goes for Alaska. I may never return after this season, but I can imagine it. I am content knowing this vast wilderness is still there.

The Elixir

Grass Is Greener Where You Water It

Even after all this time, the sun and the mountains never say to the earth, “You owe me.” Look what happens with a love like that. It lights up the whole sky.

The Inside Passage is not asking whether Alaska is more beautiful than somewhere else. It is asking whether we are willing to give attention to the place we are already standing.

Ed Reif · Inside Passage

The Wilderness Was Never the Theme Park.

The attraction was attention.

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