Old Portsmouth, U.K

Skyelark at The Camber in Portsmouth Harbour
Portsmouth Harbour / The Camber / The Solent
Foreign Land

Naval Gazing

Portsmouth Harbour, where iron, sail, memory and foiling speed occupy the same stretch of water.

Every time I walk into this port town, HMS Warrior is standing tall and proud. Portsmouth does not keep naval history behind glass. It leaves it in the misty saltwater air.

The Call

Walk Toward the Dockyard

The harbour draws the eye from the city toward the waterline, where working port, historic fleet and low tide share the same frame.

Portsmouth Harbour seen from the waterfront
Portsmouth HarbourA working waterfront where history remains part of the daily view.
Walking through Portsmouth toward the Naval Dockyard
On FootWalking downtown towards the Naval Dockyard.
Portsmouth Harbour waterside view
Harbour MorningMist and salt in the air.
Portsmouth Harbour at very low tide
The WaterlineLowwwwwwwww Tide.
Answer the Call

Iron and Sail

Two ships make the scale of Portsmouth visible: HMS Warrior’s iron hull and HMS Victory’s crowded decks.

HMS Warrior, the first armour-plated, iron-hulled warship, stands in the harbour as a constant reminder of the age of naval dominance and the legacy of empire and sea power.

HMS Victory, Admiral Horatio Nelson’s flagship, is docked at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard. Hard to believe you could fit 800 sailors aboard.

HMS Warrior at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard
HMS WarriorThe first armour-plated, iron-hulled warship (1859).
HMS Warrior's iron hull in Portsmouth Harbour
Ironclad PrideHMS Warrior standing tall in the harbour.
HMS Victory at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard
HMS VictoryImagine hundreds of sailors living and working aboard.
Maritime detail at Portsmouth Harbour
The CamberDockside detail: spray, speed and salt.
Foreign Land

When the Boats Began to Fly

The harbour shifts eras in a few hundred metres: from timber and iron to carbon, hydraulics and foils.

It is the most famous sailing event in the world and the oldest competition in international sport. The best sailors race in the fastest boats.

These AC45 catamarans are different. They are faster, lighter, and they fly on the sea. There is very little of the cat in the water. It is about aerodynamics, control systems and hydraulics. It is not brain surgery; it is rocket science. It reminds me of Formula 1. Red Bull even had one of its open-wheel cars beside the bar concession on full display. Zoom.

I broadcast a few live video feeds using Twitter’s then-new Periscope app. It was cool to get the views and have people across Europe and around the planet see my world through my Samsung S5 lens.

Crowd at the Portsmouth America's Cup race village
Race VillageEnergy building before the foiling cats launch.
America's Cup crowd beside the Solent
America’s Cup WeekendSolent wind and Red Bull speed.
Ed Reif with Philippe Presti at the America's Cup event
Avec Philippe PrestiThe French Olympian and coach of ORACLE TEAM USA.
Ed Reif with Artemis Racing grinder Chris Brittle
Artemis RacingWith grinder Chris Brittle.
Trials

Smooth Is Fast

Speed at this level does not look frantic. It looks coordinated.

I am winning at this life thing—and yet there are people so much cooler than me: extreme sailors. Touché!

Launching at the apron at 10 a.m., it was teamwork again in action. Smooth is fast. Ben Ainslie’s team looked solid, in the water and sailing through the Solent in no time.

I managed to hitch a ride on Charles and Annie’s Ballistic Inflatable, a Zodiac that could throttle to 50 in the tiny spaces around a 20-metre trampoline.

Even though it was a sea trial, the foils came out of the water and things got fast very quickly. It reminded me of open-wheel racing and life in the fast lane at the Indy 500.

Ed Reif at Land Rover BAR
Land Rover BARExtreme sailors, extreme poise.
Land Rover BAR team preparing on the water
BAR TrainingSmooth is fast.
Land Rover BAR headquarters in Portsmouth
BAR HQLaunch at the apron, then out to the Solent.
Skyelark meets Bobby at The Office in Portsmouth
The Harbour Returns to Paw LevelSkyelark meets Bobby at The Office.
Field Log

Naval Gazing in Motion

Five moving views of the harbour: ironclad silhouette, race-day crowds, grinder power, salt spray and foiling speed.

Race-Day Energy

A Periscope-era view from the crowd.

Grinder Power

Artemis Racing with Chris Brittle.

Back to the Camber

Salt spray and smiles.

Solent Speed

The foils fly.
History + Waterline + New Speed = A Harbour That Never Holds Still
The Elixir

Look Long Enough and Time Changes Hulls

Portsmouth’s lesson is not that one age replaces another. It is that every age leaves a wake. Timber becomes iron. Iron becomes carbon. Sail becomes foil. The harbour holds the memory while the boats keep moving.

Field lesson: Smooth is fast—and history is never as still as it looks from shore.

Photos and words by Ed Reif. EK Blogger edition.

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