St Louis-Traveling With Mark Twain

Mississippi River Bearing

Steamboats Come True

Life on the Mississippi, Mark Twain, and the rivers still waiting on the bucket list.

Life on the Mississippi Mark Twain American Queen River Cruise Dreaming
The river calls, promising to help you lose your baggage without going anywhere near an airport.
River Note 01

Life on the Mississippi

Paddle wheel on a Mississippi riverboat
The paddle wheel: mechanical poetry on the river.
Cover of Life on the Mississippi by Mark Twain
Life on the Mississippi: a pilot’s river before the Civil War.

Mark Twain’s Life on the Mississippi recounts his years as a steamboat pilot and his journey along the river between St Louis and New Orleans.

He writes with sincerity and irreverence, and his river voice still sounds like a dispatch from anyone reluctant to return to land, duty, and routine.

There is no unhappiness like sighting land—and work—again after a cheerful, careless voyage.
Ed Reif beneath the Gateway Arch in St Louis
St Louis: gateway to the river and the road.
Restlessness 02

Move, Move—Move

My own requests were simpler: anyplace but here and I want to be surprised.

All I know or feel is that I am wild with impatience to move, move—move.

The familiar “twenty years from now” passage—often attributed to Twain—captures the operating instruction: leave the safe harbour, catch the trade winds, explore, dream, and discover.

Rolling on the Mississippi: riverboat movement and memory.
Ed Reif beside the Mississippi River during the 2008 flood
The Mississippi during the 2008 flooding.

Hemingway’s advice was blunt: do not travel with people you do not love. Twain sharpened the point: travel reveals whether companionship is affection or endurance.

That is the real test. Distance removes the polite scenery.

Hotel @nyware 03

Heaven for the Climate

Mauritius landscape during the 2011 world cruise
Mauritius: heaven copied after the island—or so the story goes.
Go to heaven for the climate and hell for the company.

In Hotel @nyware, Twain became a recurring writing companion. His lines opened doors into travel, friendship, procrastination, cost, control, and the useful disorder of working at sea.

Liking people spontaneously and without effort may be one of the greatest sources of happiness. Cruise ships concentrate the experiment. Remove the fruits and nuts from the granola and all that remains are the flakes.

Travel can be expensive, but staying still also gives everyone one free trip around the sun. Procrastination is suicide on an instalment plan—though without the last minute, very little would ever get done.

No matter how many plans we make, life keeps winging it. Ship life simply makes the improvisation harder to hide.

Bucket List 04

Rolling Down the River

American Queen riverboat on the Mississippi River
American Queen: the steamboat dream made visible.

Rolling down the river brings John Fogerty’s Proud Mary to mind. Another river song from his revival years, The River Is Waiting, belongs beside it.

The list now requires revision. The Mississippi, Ohio, Tennessee, Snake, and Columbia rivers belong on the next edition of the cruise ledger.

Nine Cruises Before I Died
Final Bearing

The River Is Waiting

Ocean ships taught me to leave. Riverboats suggest another discipline: move slowly enough to watch the country reveal itself one bend at a time.

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