3 Days @ Sea Then Lisbon, Portugal
First Time in Lisbon: Feeling Like Vasco da Gama
A modern visitor walks Lisbon with the ghost of a historic navigator.
Churchill Was Wrong
Lisbon is a legendary city with over 20 centuries of history. I hoped to prove Winston Churchill wrong for having said, "I shall always be glad to have seen it-for the same reason Papa gave for being glad to have seen Lisbon-namely, that it will be unnecessary ever to see it again."
Portugal Still Holds the Frame
Exploring the beauty of Portugal STILL in 2024!
Lisbon, Lagos, and the Monument to the Discoveries
The stunning view of Lisbon from Sao Jorge Castle
The coastal town of Lagos, 2015
The impressive Monument to the Discoveries, 2015
Miguel and Ed Walk Lisbon
Miguel (local guide): Welcome to Lisbon! So this is your first time in Portugal?
Ed: Yes, and I feel like Vasco da Gama setting foot on new shores. Though I am exploring with a camera instead of a compass!
Miguel: (laughing) Well, da Gama's journey was slightly more perilous. He sailed around Africa seeking a route to India, forever changing maritime trade. But I promise our journey today will be more comfortable.
We begin our walk through Alfama, Lisbon's oldest district, with its labyrinthine streets and ancient stone walls.
Ed: These narrow alleys remind me of mazes. I can see why sailors might have felt at home here-it's like navigating by instinct.
Miguel: Exactly! And just as da Gama had to adapt to unfamiliar waters, visitors to Lisbon must surrender to its rhythm. Look ahead-São Jorge Castle. From there, many expeditions were blessed before departure.
Ed: I have read about Portugal's Age of Discovery. da Gama left from right here in 1497, right?
Miguel: Indeed. From Belém, just a few kilometers west of where we stand. His expedition marked Portugal's golden age. The wealth from trade routes transformed this city.
Ed: It must have been incredible-leaving everything familiar behind, sailing into the unknown.
Miguel: Much like your own journey, though perhaps with fewer comforts! (smiles) da Gama lost half his crew and faced countless hardships. Today, we face only the challenge of climbing these hills.
We make our way to Belém, where the Tagus River meets the Atlantic Ocean.
Miguel: This is the Monument to the Discoveries. All those figures carved in stone are Portugal's greatest explorers. da Gama is there, following Prince Henry the Navigator.
Ed: It's humbling to stand where history was made. Though I am documenting my discoveries with photos instead of maps.
Miguel: And here's the Tower of Belém. The last sight sailors would see when leaving Portugal, and the first upon returning home-if they were fortunate enough to return.
Ed: Unlike Churchill, I already know I will need to return. One visit isn't enough to chart all of Lisbon's treasures.
Miguel: Before we end our day, we must try pastéis de nata. da Gama's men dreamed of these sweet treats during their long voyages.
Ed: The perfect end to our expedition! I have discovered something Churchill clearly missed-the soul of Lisbon. It's not just in the monuments but in these moments, these flavors, these stories.
Miguel: That's what makes a true explorer-seeing beyond the surface. da Gama found India, but you've found the heart of Portugal.
The Modern Explorer vs. the Historic Navigator
Vasco da Gama (1497)
- Sought spice trade routes to India
- Navigated by stars and rudimentary maps
- Journey lasted two years
- Faced scurvy, storms, and hostile encounters
- Changed global trade forever
Modern Visitor (2025)
- Seeks cultural experiences and memories
- Navigates by smartphone GPS
- Journey lasts days or weeks
- Faces jet lag, tourist crowds, and language barriers
- Changes personal perspective forever
Ed Reif's Modern Exploration
- Focuses on leisure and cultural exploration
- Documents experiences through photography
- Appreciates local cuisine and traditions
- Seeks personal enrichment and understanding
- Travels with comfort and modern conveniences
Vasco da Gama's Historic Voyage
- Aimed to establish trade routes to India
- Focused on economic and imperial expansion
- Navigated through unknown territories
- Endured extreme hardships and dangers
- Forever changed global trade and history
Lisbon to Calicut
Historical Note: Vasco da Gama's expedition left Lisbon in July 1497 with four ships and about 170 men. After rounding the Cape of Good Hope, they reached Calicut, India in May 1498. This journey established a sea route from Europe to Asia, breaking the Venetian and Arab monopolies on trade routes to the East and helping build Portugal's maritime empire.
Unlike Churchill, I left Lisbon not with relief but with a promise to return-for there are always new horizons to discover in this city of explorers.